Andato a Toscana

For a typical American, the view of Italy is pretty ubiquitous. Few even know the difference between the south and the north. Thus, when describing my travels, I must rely solely on my descriptive ability and visuals in order to get across as much information about this diverse country as possible. With Tuscany and the walled city of Siena, this is not nearly as big of an issue.

As you train for Siena from Parma, you arrive in the general Tuscany region from Bologna via a series of underground tunnels. Sitting in my compartment, I felt my eyes droop from the monotony of any long journey. They ride through Emilia Romagna (where Parma and Bologna are located) was generally flat and characterized by agricultural abundance. We entered the tunnels somewhere outside of Bologna and not yet in Tuscany. Immediately upon exit, the previous haze of sleepiness disappeared almost instantaneously. Those who have experienced the rolling hills, full of vegetation and life know the thrill I felt. Leaving the soot and squalor of the train tunnel, I took in a deep breath full of life and oxygen and a general crispness I have only yet associated with Seattle in her own brilliance. The sun peaked over the horizon of the nearest knoll, casting long shadows upon countless valley communities. "Under the Tuscan sun..." I thought, quietly berating myself for epitomizing that 'typical American.' I had asked my host mother prior to departure "Ti piace Toscana?" "Ai! Toscana e bellisima!" was the response. "Davvero..."

I progressed around, under and through the countless hills and finally arrived at the Siena train station, outside the general city limits. We then proceeded to the city. Siena, I was told, typifies a northern Italian gothic era city. Unlike Parma, which had its roots set as an ancient Roman city, Siena developed as one of many small city states stretching the western shores of Italy. Built upon one of the foremost hills, Siena certainly struck me as magnificent. We walked to the large fortezza on the northeast wall of the city. I was amused. What was once a fortezza against Firenze now housed jazz concerts, strolling couples and a sign reading 'Wine Bar, this way'. In Centro, called 'Campo,' the 17 'Contradas' paraded with drummers and flags looking much akin to pictures I had seen of the Swiss Guard. Contradas, I soon learned, are based upon the 17 different regions of Siena and were originally assigned according to lineage and trade. Now, existing in a traditional sense, each contrada takes pride in their flag, exhibiting their fervor in the form of parades and a bi-annual bareback horse race... Tired from walking and withered, I downed an energy drink. This was the beginning.

Day gave way to night and the city unveiled her other half. Cities, even the ones you hail from and know like the back of your hand, change face at night. Everything open in the day, closes. Conversely, new venues usher in patrons only as the sun sets. The shadows crossing the Campo lengthened as we sat eating pizza, eventually disappearing and with it, the warmth of the day.

The night was freddo and naturally the Americans turned to alcohol to provide the internal warmth. I was hence surprised to find that the art of 'shooters' was quite prevalent in Siena, something like home albeit with a semblance of class. 'Three shots for €5.' According to my friend, this was the best deal in town. Although we Americans were drinking in what we simply called 'the shot bar,' it was hardly there simply for tourists. A group of Italians next to us took pleasure in downing shot after shot while watching the U20 World Cup final between Ghana and Brazil. Perhaps it was the ever present American influence that gave rise to a new brand of "drinking to get drunk." Perhaps it was the natural evolution of European integration, Italy just now adapting to typical Eastern European standards, infamous the world over. Either way, the pleasure, warmth and culture of the bar was enticing and I enjoyed every minute.

The weekend in Siena provided me with many things, but first and foremost, it helped the development of prospective; a facet of understanding necessary for any cultural learning. Parma does not epitomize Italy. Parma is central to Italian culture as much as New York is to America. Although we know this on paper, traveling to Siena brought the personal experience necessary to bring those facts up from the semi-conscious world of book-knowledge to in-your-face-real-world knowledge. The thirst for new cities, new feelings and new culture now engulfs me more than ever. I'm provided Europe, replete with just this. But this is a craving never to be completely satisfied. And thus it is meant to be. It's what makes this journey special.